It was a great time, and I'm honored that so many people came out to enjoy some wonderful oolongs from the central part of Taiwan. After a brief explanation about the teas and how competitions work in Taiwan, I opened up the tasting and let the chaos ensue. People were free to taste and steep the teas as long or as short as they wanted, and we did two "competition style" as well. I also brought out a more modern style Long Fen Xia Jin Xuan for people to compare. Below are my notes in a slightly elaborated format.
First, I wanted - and still want to - stress the importance of tasting each tea on its own merits. It is unfair to the farmer, roaster, and everyone else to compare a Nantou Qing Xin Light Roast Oolong to that of a High Mountain Jin Xuan from Alishan. Not only is it unfair, but it is missing the point of each tea, especially competition teas. Competition teas are a celebration of each unique artisanal region and style, and comparing them to each other would be inappropriate. You don't compare an American IPA to an Australian Lager to an English Stout. The same holds true here.
The other point I stressed is that although the trend over the last 20+ years in marketing and pushing Gaoshan or High Mountain Green (Jade) oolongs has resulted in some remarkable teas, it has at the same time done a disservice to the more traditional flavors and profiles found in Taiwan (and China as well). The initial push by TenRen in the 1980s for green oolongs, which can be more readily replicated then complex, more oxidized and roasted oolongs continues, and every year more and more oolongs are produced in this green style than in the more traditional style.
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| This is the map I made for the tasting, highlighting the teas we were tasting, not all teas or regions in Taiwan. Red are ones we tasted purple are other famous regions. |
To combat this, and to celebrate regional and traditional practices, varietals, and flavor profiles, farmers in Taiwan have formed their own associations and trade groups. Not only does this allow the small farmers in Taiwan - some 12,000+ in total - combat the larger corporate farms, but it also builds community, solidarity, and allows them to share resources and knowledge. To honor each other and their hard labor, each association holds their own competition - once in the spring, and once in the winter. Not every farmer enters their association's competition - sometimes their bushes do not produce, sometimes their entire lot is bought prior to the competition, sometimes a roaster does not want a certain farmer's crop (farmers and roasters are not synonymous in Taiwan).
Competitions are run on a modified Indian format, with each entry submitting 13kg of tea within their respective field. Fields are broken down by roast level and by varietal. So, for the Nantou Farmer's Association Spring Competition one could submit an entry into the Jin Xuan Light Roast category, or the Qing Xin Medium Roast category. Each tea varietal and roast are compared only across their own qualities.
During the competition almost all of the tea is consumed in the judging process, but there is often around 2kg (4.5lbs) left over. If the tea "wins" and is designated Top Class or Gold Winner, it is officially packaged and sealed by the competition body and sold immediately to those with lots of money or the proper connections. However, those that make it through the first rounds of the competition, but do not make it to the final top ranking, can be acquired if the right opportunity presents itself. That is how I was able to get these teas.
A note on competition judging. The judging is composed of 20% on aroma, 20% on appearance, and 60% on taste. Each competition has it's own ranking system, so some award Top Class, while others award Gold Winner. However, unlike here in the US, there is no single winner. Rather, there are percentages: 60% are dropped from the initial entry into the competition, then the next ranking is Premium, followed by Superior, then Top Class or Gold. So, in the end, if there are 1,000 entries, there are 10 winners, 100 Superior, and so forth. Still, since one needs to judge the tea on its own merits, they are all usually very good and of high quality.
Another important note is how the tea is brewed during the competition. I prefer to use gaiwans, and do quick steepings with lots of leaves. In competitions it is different. The steep time is 6 minutes, then the tea is poured off and let to cool, then the judging begins. We did this for the Meishan and the Tung Ting entries, as well as brewed with gaiwans and the differences were noticeable. I won't say which was "better" since that is subjective and dependent on what I like, my constitution, the water one uses, etc.
The most common varietals found in Taiwan are:
- · Qing Xin: Soft stem varietal, one of the original strains from Fujian, China, known as Green Heart. Found throughout central Taiwan, but more prone to disease and pests, so being displaced by Jin Xuan.
- Qing Xin Da You: A sub-varietal.
- · Tsui Yu: Newer varietal, TRES #13, known as Kingfisher Jade, registered in 1981. A lowland varietal, lighter, more floral.
- · Jin Xuan: modern varietal, TRES #12, registered in 1980. This is the big modern one that is very popular because it is disease and pest resistant and also produces larger leaves for bigger crop yields. Often called "Milky Oolong" whether or not it was steamed over milk or not.
- · Si Ji Chun: 4 Seasons, modern varietal, not produced by TRES but rather a a hybrid that was found by a farmer. Popular because it is floral and has a high yield, allowing it to be harvested during "all four seasons."
- · Ti Kuan Yin: from China, one of the original strains, mostly found in the north of the island.
- · Bai Hao: Oriental Beauty, another original varietal, grown in the north of the island. Unique because it is "bug bitten" like Darjeelings and Concubine Oolongs. The original Formosa Oolong.
- · Bao Zhong: A green varietal, grown in the north, usually not rolled or roasted, the lightest of the oolongs.
Finally a note on harvesting. There are generally two harvesting methods: by hand and by "machine." By hand is the traditional method, and is still the only way to harvest most of the High Mountain oolongs because of the steep slopes. This method preserves the
integrity of the leaves and stem, but it does not allow for optimal harvests.
Machine harvesting is newer and performed on less steep terrain. It is really not a "machine" like we think in the West, but basically a motorized clipper with an air vacuum attached that clips and then sucks the leaves into the basket. Two people hold it, one on each side of the bush. This method does not preserve the stem, but it does allow for leaves to be
harvested at the optimal time, which is after the morning dew has evaporated from the
leaves, but before the sun has heated them up. It also allows for the harvest to
take place faster, which provides more control over the outdoor oxidation that
occurs between plucking and wilting. People argue for each method - I can't really say which is "better." But it is something to think about.
Nantou
County Tea Trade Association Qing Xin Oolong 2015 Spring Competition
Elevation: 2,600’
Roast: Medium
Oxidation: Medium (30-45%)
Varietal: Qing Xin
Competition Entries: 2,400
Place: Superior Grade (Top 20%)
Comes from Song Bo Lin, Nantou.
Nantou
County Tea Trade Association Tsui Yu Oolong 2015 Spring Competition
Elevation: 2,600’
Roast: Medium
Oxidation: Medium (30-45%)
Varietal: Tsui Yu
Competition Entries: 2,400
Place: Superior Grade (20%)
Comes from Song Bo Lin, Nantou.
Mingjian
Farmers’ Association Qing Xin Oolong 2015 Spring Competition
Elevation: 2,600’
Roast: Light-Medium
Oxidation: Light-Medium (25-35%)
Varietal: Qing Xin
Competition Entries: 2,134
Place: Superior Grade (Top 20%)
Meishan
Farmers’ Association High Mountain Oolong 2014 Winter Competition
Elevation: 5,800’
Roast: Unroasted
Oxidation: Light (10-20%)
Varietal: Qing Xin
Competition Entries: 2,437
Place: Superior Grade (Top 20%)
Second largest competition, comprises the majority of the
Alishan High Mountain Oolong region.
Tung Ting
Tea Cooperative Jin Xuan Oolong 2014 Winter Competition
Elevation: 5,600’
Roast: Medium-Heavy
Oxidation: Light-Medium (30%)
Varietal: Jin Xuan
Competition Entries: 2,535
Place: Top Class Gold (Top 3%)
Comes from Yong Long Village,
just above Tung Ting Mountain.
Stems were hand removed from the
most eligible batch produced from this farmer’s winter harvest.
Sadly, I have no photos of the Tung Ting. No excuse, just my fault!
Thanks everyone for coming out and tasting teas! A special thanks to my source, Nic and Andy! Some of these will be in the cafe for regular drinking in a week or two, but I think everyone was able to take some home to enjoy at their leisure. Thanks again, until the next one.
Sources:
I spent a long time researching this post. I did a lot of surfing of the web, spent some time on Google Scholar, and also on the TRES website and the various Association websites. If I got anything wrong, just tell me and I'll fix it. This is a learning journey for me and I would like to make sure I get things as accurate as possible.
Sources:
I spent a long time researching this post. I did a lot of surfing of the web, spent some time on Google Scholar, and also on the TRES website and the various Association websites. If I got anything wrong, just tell me and I'll fix it. This is a learning journey for me and I would like to make sure I get things as accurate as possible.
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